The Soap Opera of American Apparel: What Actually Happened?
If you walked into a room between 2004 and 2012, chances are half the people there were wearing an American Apparel 2001 Fine Jersey tee. It was the undisputed king of the blank shirt world. It was soft, it didn’t fit like a square cardboard box, and it was proudly made in Los Angeles by people getting paid a living wage. It felt like a revolution in basic clothing.
Then the wheels came off. The founder, Dov Charney, managed to run the company into a mountain of debt while simultaneously drowning in a sea of lawsuits and sexual harassment allegations. The board finally booted him in 2014. The brand stumbled through two bankruptcies before the Canadian corporate giant Gildan swooped in and bought the intellectual property for 88 million dollars in 2017. Gildan promptly closed the American factories, fired the workers, and moved production offshore. The “American Apparel” shirts you buy today are just cheap imitations wearing a ghost’s name tag.
But Charney didn’t stop. He bought up the old factory equipment, hired back his old garment workers, and started a new company called Los Angeles Apparel. Keep that in mind, because it matters heavily for this comparison.
The Great Blank T-Shirt Battle Royale
Let’s look at the actual contenders you asked about to see what can actually replace your worn-out vintage favorites.
1. Los Angeles Apparel 2001 (Unisex Fine Jersey)
If you want the exact shirt you loved in 2008, this is it. It is literally made on the same machines by the same people. It uses 100% combed cotton fine jersey at 4.3 ounces. It has that signature slim, youth-culture fit that hugs the shoulders and torso without turning into a compression shirt. It is incredibly soft right out of the box and stands up to years of wash cycles without losing its shape because it actually has side seams. The downside? It is by far the most expensive blank on this list. You pay for domestic labor.
2. Bella + Canvas 3001 & 3001CVC
This is the current darling of the indie merch world. The standard 3001 is 100% ring-spun cotton, weighing in at 4.2 ounces. It has a modern “retail fit” which is slightly more forgiving than the old American Apparel cut but still looks sharp and tailored. It feels incredibly smooth, almost silky.
The 3001CVC is the heathered version, which introduces a polyester blend (usually around 52% cotton and 48% polyester). If you care about durability, the CVC is a tank. The polyester blend means it will almost never shrink, it resists wrinkles, and it handles aggressive tumble drying like a champ. Both are priced at a reasonable mid-tier point.
3. Next Level Apparel 6210 (CVC Crew)
Just to clear up a technicality, the Next Level 6210 and the “6210CVC” are the exact same shirt. CVC stands for Chief Value Cotton. It is a 60% cotton and 40% polyester blend weighing 4.3 ounces. This shirt is tailored tightly, especially around the arms and chest, making it highly popular for the gym crowd. It feels soft, but it definitely has that slightly synthetic, athletic stretch to it. Because of that heavy polyester content, it is wildly durable and will survive a nuclear blast without losing its shape, but it does not have that pure, authentic 2000s cotton jersey feel.
4. Gildan 5000 & 64000 (The “Goldman” Options)
We need to talk about these two because they are completely different animals. The Gildan 5000 is the classic, heavy 5.3-ounce “free t-shirt you got at a local charity 5k run.” It is made from rough, open-end cotton. It has no side seams, meaning it is a giant fabric tube that fits like a tent. It is rough, it shrinks unpredictably, but it is cheap as dirt and virtually indestructible. If you loved American Apparel, you will absolutely hate this shirt.
The Gildan 64000 Softstyle is Gildan trying to play nice with the fashion crowd. It drops the weight to 4.5 ounces and uses ring-spun cotton, making it significantly softer and lighter than the 5000. It has a more modern, semi-fitted cut. It still lacks the premium drape of a Bella + Canvas or Los Angeles Apparel shirt, but for a budget option, it is shockingly decent.
The Direct Comparison
| Shirt Model | Material Type | Fit Profile | Feel & Softness | Durability | Cost Tier |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LA Apparel 2001 | 100% Combed Cotton | Slim / Fashion Cut | Classic, soft jersey | High (holds shape) | Premium / Expensive |
| Bella + Canvas 3001 | 100% Ring-spun Cotton | Modern Retail / Balanced | Ultra-smooth, silky | Medium-High | Moderate |
| Bella + Canvas 3001CVC | Cotton / Poly Blend | Modern Retail / Balanced | Soft with light stretch | Very High | Moderate |
| Next Level 6210 | 60% Cotton / 40% Poly | Athletic / Tapered | Soft, performance feel | Excellent | Moderate |
| Gildan 64000 | 100% Ring-spun Cotton | Semi-Fitted | Decently soft, light | Medium | Budget-Friendly |
| Gildan 5000 | 100% Open-end Cotton | Boxy / Traditional | Rough, structured | Indestructible | Dirt Cheap |
The Final Verdict: What Should You Buy?
If you have the budget and want to recapture the exact magic, nostalgia, and fit of the original millennium-era premium basic, buy the Los Angeles Apparel 2001. It is the literal genetic continuation of the brand.
Oh, If you want a modern, incredibly soft shirt that does not cost an arm and a leg for everyday wear, grab the Bella + Canvas 3001 (or the 3001CVC if you tend to abuse your laundry). Avoid the Gildan 5000 unless you are painting your house or changing your oil.